Vilros 40 Pin Hammer-in Pin Header for Raspberry Pi Zero with Install Rig---Easy Pinheader Installation Solution for a Raspberry Pi Zero----No Soldering Required

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This rig and pin header was very easy to use. Some even and gentle taps with a hammer, check to see if the header is flush with the board, and repeat if necessary. Took me 3 times of even and gentle tapping on the strike bar to get the headers flush with the board. Probably 2 minutes worth of tapping saving me who knows how long of soldering/resoldering since I'm not good at it.

When I first heard about hammer-in headers I thought that they would be great for anyone that doesn't know how to solder, or that doesn't want to take the time to do it. Having used this jig, I'm not sure how good of an idea it is now.This kit comes with a 2-piece jig (a base and a metal bar) and 1 hammer-in header for a Raspberry Pi Zero. To use it, you place a RasPi Zero face-up, with the alignment pins going through the mounting holes on the RasPi. You then set the hammer-in header on top of the holes for the GPIO port. After placing the metal bar on the larger alignment pins and over the header, you give it a few moderate and controlled hits with a small hammer (I know, that sounds weird). This forces the split part of the header pins into the holes for the GPIO port, and the header should sit flush with the RasPi circuit board.In short, this Vilros jig does seem to work and it does what it is supposed to do. I have a few reservations about using this type of header though. First, you do need to use a bit of finesse with the hammer. I could see someone either not hitting it hard enough to fully seat the header resulting in inadequate contact with the connection points, or hitting it too hard and end up breaking the jig or the RasPi Zero.Second, is the cost of the hammer-in headers. From what I could tell, the hammer-in headers cost as much as the RasPi Zero itself, and more than 10x what a solder-in header would cost.Third, you are limited in the type and positioning of the header that you can use with this jig. You can only use a straight male header that is mounted on the top of the board. If you wanted to use a female header or angled header, or mount it on the bottom side of the board, you are out of luck.While this jig seems to work fine for its intended purpose, between the cost of additional hammer-in headers and the potential risk of damaging the Raspberry Pi Zero, I think it is still best to learn to solder and use soldered headers.

I wish 4.5 stars was available. The device could use a wee bit of improvement. Everything feels just a wee bit too wobbly and loose. But it works. I've done two pi zeros so far and have ordered 10 more headers. They feel completely secure.I've tried getting good at soldering over the past 25 years but I just can't get the hang of it. So I was so glad when I ran across these.Highly recommend.

I tried this jig so that you don't have to... I thought perhaps I could coax it to work with an OrangePi. The problem is that the OrangePi has components on the bottom of the board and this jig needs a flat surface. I figured I could modify things to get it to work but no dice. After trying several approaches ultimately I used a piece of cardboard (with cutout) to pad the circuitry.I also tried using a clamp to carefully squeeze the parts together instead of indiscriminately hammering which subjects the board to a lot of physical shock and stress. But that didn't work either. And in the end I also tried hammering... and still failed.I was being super careful but still ended up with a broken connector.The fundamental problem is that the two rows on the connector did not behave equally. One side wanted to go in and the other presented much higher resistance. I don't know if this was the result of the holes in the board being slightly different or if it was the prongs on the connector that were slightly different.All I know is that the jig does nothing to prevent sideways movement of the connector and it kept bending sideways. I would straighten out the pins and try again until eventually one of the pins broke.I don't know how well this jig works on the board it is actually designed for but I am skeptical. Other reviewers have reported that it pops out easily and I experienced some of that too -- from the partly inserted connector.After the connector broke I dug my soldering station out of storage and proceeded to do what is probably the worlds worst soldering job. I half expected my OPi to have been damaged by all the abuse but was happy to see that despite everything it managed to survive.And the Bottom Line is that Soldering the (regular) Connector turned out to be a lot less effort and a lot less risk to the board than using this jig was. And I am not skilled at soldering in fact it has been years since I last did any.If I can fumble my way through the soldering then you probably can too. Just get yourself a decent soldering iron... I got mine from amazon for about $100. and also get a magnifier (with light) this thing is tiny! You will need a board holder too. A fume extractor is also a good idea if doing more than this one connector. Once you have those the world is your oyster... you can build (almost) anything...P.S. I am loving my OrangePi Zero 2W with it's 4 gigs of memory ... I have it running Debian! It even plays youtube videos but only just barely.

So weird. I've never seen a board where you had to literally hammer in pin headers before. But that's what it takes if you want to install the GPIO pins on a Raspberry Pi Zero / Zero 2. So don't overlook this handy tool if you bought a board without the pins. Don't be shy, give it a solid whack or two.